Roma Turrita: The Medieval Towers of Monti

The Rione Monti presents an exceptionally fascinating urban fabric. Among its most evocative streets is the Salita del Grillo, where some of Rome’s most important medieval towers stand in sequence: the Torre delle Milizie, the Torre del Grillo, and the Torre dei Conti. These imposing structures were built to defend part of the road that, during the Middle Ages, connected Saint Peter’s to Saint John Lateran — the so-called Via Papalis.

The Torre delle Milizie is immediately recognizable for its noticeable tilt. Its appearance is highly evocative, as it is traditionally associated with the legend of Nero’s Great Fire. According to popular imagination, the emperor stood at the top of this very tower playing the lyre while Rome burned. Although suggestive, the story is historically unfounded: the tower dates to the 13th century and represents the rise of the powerful Conti family, particularly associated with Pope Innocent III.

Partially damaged by the earthquake of 1348, the Torre delle Milizie still dominates the skyline above Trajan’s Markets, standing as a striking reminder of medieval Rome.

The Salita del Grillo takes its name from the famous Torre del Grillo, marked by the inscription Ex Marchione de Grillis. The family is widely known thanks to Mario Monicelli’s film The Marquis of Grillo, in which the unforgettable Alberto Sordi portrays Marquis Onofrio as a man of questionable tact. In one memorable scene, he throws stones at Jewish beggars from the height of his portico.

When the Pope allegedly asked him to show greater sensitivity, the Marquis is said to have replied in Roman dialect that he simply could not resist throwing something whenever he saw them pass by. As a compromise, he replaced the stones with fruit — specifically pinecones.

At the end of Via Tor dei Conti, where traces of Imperial Rome and the ancient Suburra still survive, the eye is drawn to the imposing Torre dei Conti. Its origins are traditionally linked to Pope Nicholas I and dated to 869. In the 13th century, the tower was acquired by the Conti family and, together with the Torre delle Milizie, became an almost impregnable stronghold of this wealthy and powerful dynasty.

Like the Torre delle Milizie, the Torre dei Conti was severely damaged by the earthquake of 1348, which, as recorded in contemporary chronicles, significantly reduced its height.

The towers along the Salita del Grillo constitute a unique historical and artistic ensemble. They offer a compelling gateway into the realities of medieval Rome, helping us move beyond the romanticized and mythical image of the Middle Ages and toward a deeper, more tangible understanding of the city’s layered past.